For depth of realism, for beauty of writing, for code that both enhances roleplay and makes the world come alive, there's no equal for Armageddon. I've run characters there that ranged from gritty, gruff Byn sergeants to a devious, manipulative member of a noble house, a sly elvish pickpocket scrambling for her next sid and scheming for that one big haul... and it never loses its appeal.
Recent changes include code that allows items to become burned, dirtied, or bloodied, additions to the already ample crafting code that allows clan-specific crafting, and northern and southern accents.
New players are advised to skim through the introductory section of the webpage and get a feel for the game, which will enhance their first time tenfold -- but save the other docs for later reading. There's a lot of them, and they make this world feel more real than any other I've experienced.
The immortals listen to the players -- while they stay out of the way of play, they also publish a weekly update that lists the changes they've made, credits people for typos and ideas, provides staff contacts for the clans, and on and on. It's a community of great roleplayers, with the best possible playground provided for them.