I've been away from the MUDding scene for 5 years or so, now, and recently rediscovered Tarmon Gaidon. The character creation system allows for some pretty cool customizations, and the FAQ's on the website are very helpful. (Don't create a channeler until you read these, though!)
While the playerbase is small, those who do play create a warm, newbie friendly environment. The RP I've experienced has been awesome -- and that's the part I missed about MUDding in the first place.
Rhuarc, thank you for creating a place for this "homesick" Aes Sedai to enjoy. Artur, thank you for being so patient with all the newbie questions. Agelmar, thank you for throwing chairs at Emel when he deserves it. And to the players, thank you for giving me some pretty darn cool RP. Smote SO rocks.