Personally I prefer it when the mud has built-in maps that you can call on with the command MAP. One of the muds I play on, 4 Dimensions, has this feature, and it's really helpful.
The maps you get are particularly large and detailed when the zone is a 'wilderness grid', where you get an 11x11 room map, with yourself in the centre. But the ordinary zones generate maps too, although you can only look 2 rooms in each direction in those.
They also have lots of maps on their website. These look like 'real' maps, very pretty and accurate, even though I hear they are made with just the simple tool Paint.
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