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I've played a few pay-to-plays. A couple run by Simutronics, and Inferno, which is run by Ice9.
I think it depends on what you want from your gaming experience. Pay to plays have some features that other games might not have, but you find them exchanging those features for other things that free games do have.
Pay to plays need to cater to the majority, in ordered to make a profit. Free games need to cater to the intent of the creator, without worrying if anyone has a problem with their vision.
If you're into lots of verbs, many of which do very silly things that make little or no IC sense, then I'd go Simu. They have games with lots and lots of people, pretty good room descriptions and some damned interesting areas and spells for magic types. Unfortunately they have no engagement system whatsoever. Roleplay is only optional and not required, and PKing is only allowed if the IMM watching it decides it's allowed. There's no hard-fast rule about it, and someone might get banned from the game for killing someone who attacks them, while another person who goes on a killing spree might be allowed to stay.
Inferno is far superior regarding roleplay and they have an engagement system, and their descriptions are awesome. Unfortunately their player base is small, and I doubt their turning enough profit to stick around for too many more years.
I don't see too many free games that I like, but I've found one that has almost everything I want in my gaming experience, so I'm sticking here.
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