No matter what type of place it is, you should always expect fun out of a mud, that's for certain. Different people have different ideas as to what constitutes fun for them. I started out with a hack&slash type place, and that was fun. I moved to a roleplay encouraged place, and that's been fun. Sometimes it can be tough to keep that rolling, no matter where you are.
You probably either need some sort of goal that you want to attain in mind (getting to a certain level, playing your character through a certain situation, etc.), or at least have new options always availble. That's one thing I expect out of a mud if I'm going to play--there needs to be something to grab, and then hold my interest.
It's also nice to have a community feeling to the place. I don't like to be disconnected from the people that I am interacting with, I enjoy it a lot more when I can get to know them a bit aside from any mob/player killing, or roleplay or such. Being able to come together and have a nice big family type of feeling is really great.
A big part of that is probably staff, and newbie friendliness/accessibility, though the players themselves need to take up the cause too.
I'm not so much on board in any sort of debate between 'commercial' or not, roleplay or not, etc. I've been able to find good stuff in several different settings.
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