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After MUDding for about a year, I wanted the same things. My response was to seek out MUSHes and MUXes that have minimal skill and combat systems and no leveling. That does require compromise, though, and in my experience what gets compromised is my desire to be able to log in and immediately be involved in role playing. The playing I do is much more enjoyable and creative... but it can also be days between scenes.
If you really want nearly constant in-character interaction, then the RPI MUDs are your best bet. I'd also suggest Forgotten Kingdoms, even though I'm really not fond of the style of staffing I found there several years ago. At one time I would have suggested some of the Dawn of Time MUDs - at least their emote and say code is good enough to produce fairly realistic-looking dialogue - but I'd suggest being careful since there is currently some conflict among games using that codebase.
Really, though, I'd suggest lowering your sights a little. Games with excellent RP but no or inconsequential leveling have less appeal to many players, it seems, and therefor fewer players. But, after some adjustment, they can still be very satisfying.
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